Córdoba to Mancha Real. The olive oil route
A gravel ride on farm tracks and cycleways from the rolling hills around Córdoba to the seemingly endless olive goves of Jaén Province.
Part 5 of my version of the European Divide Trail
Description
Leaving Cordoba by the Roman Bridge, you’ll pass through a very authentic and working class district called Fray Albino with rows of very similar mid century housing. I’d recomment the cafes near the roundabout just after the bridge e.g. Cafetería LLENKA.
The hills outside Cordoba are rolling in nature, you’ll follow mostly gravel farm tracks to Castro del Rio and then some small roads towards Baena. This route follows the Mozarabic Way, a historic branch of the Camino de Santiago that starts in southern Spain and joins the larger Via de la Plata in Mérida before heading to Santiago de Compostela.
Baena is known for its castle and the olive oil industry (there’s a museum). It’s a great place to stop overnight.
After Baena you’re on The Olive Oil Greenway (Via Verde del Aceite) which was originally a railway built in the late 19th century to transport olive oil (and other agricultural products) towards the population centres near the coast. Closed to trains in 1984, it was transformed into the current cycleway in the early 2000s. The cycleway passes through the Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park and you’ll clearly see the higher hills and mountains to the south for much of the route. Be sure to stop to take in the viaducts, tunnels and stations and lastly I’d recommend a stop in Martos, one of the villages on the route.
Statistics
Distance: 156km, 2-3 days
70% off-road, 99% no/low traffic.
Climb: 2370m, around 15m per km, not easy, but not very strenuous either = medium.
Difficulty and type of bike
This isn’t a hard route.
There’s some proper farm tracks between Cordoba and Baena and then between Jaen and Mancha Real. But most of the rest is on a high quality cycleway.
The farm tracks will be of varying quality (see the mud photo). But I’d say a gravel bike would be ideal for this route.
I used my Nua Roure with 2.35 inch (57/58mm) tyres.
When to go
Reiterating that Cordoba is the hottest place in Europe in summer. If you do this in summer then expect temperatures higher than 40C.
I did this is April and it was just perfect.
Highlights
Córdoba
The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir when leaving Cordoba.
The hills outside Córdoba are green and undulating much like Tuscany.
Baena is a key town on Camino de Santiago.
The Olive Oil Greenway.
Jaen’s identity is centered around olive oil and the food that comes from the province.
Olive groves. 20% of global olive oil comes from the Province of Jaen, equal to 50% of Spain’s production.
Mancha Real is one of the local production centres for olive oil. Be sure to stop for churros and chocolate at Churrería María Rosa.
Route
Getting there and back
Getting to and from Córdoba is very easy in Spain. The train is the way.
Mancha Real is more difficult to get to and from, you’d be better doing as I did and stopping in Jaen. There’s a station in Jaen with trains to Córdoba but there have been issues with the line being washed away so be sure to check.
