Fjords and Ferries on Zealand.

The classic 4 ferries circular tour around Isefjord on the island of Zealand, Denmark. Close enough to Copenhagen that you could do it in a day if you went for it, but best enjoyed over at least two days, cycling with the family.

Description

This is a Denmark classic, not necessarily Denmark in miniature but it has lots of the ingredients: lots of gravel, forests, various sized and styled coastal towns, occasional villages.

There is (or at least was in 2024) a 4 ferries ticket that you can buy for your bike and self when getting on the first ferry (whichever it is) of the route.

There are quite a few shelters and camping spots on the route. We stayed at Kulhuse which I actually wouldn’t recommend: it has no view, and is very sheltered which may be ok in a winter storm, but is summer it just means lots of mosquitos. To find a good overnight shelter (you’ll need sleeping bags and mattresses), check out https://www.shelterapp.dk/.

Highlights

  • Holbæk is a typical Danish coastal town, with its inviting high street and various collections of buildings representing every decade in the last few hundred years.

  • Ørø is the only island on the trip, very small and can be cycled round in less than an hour if you want a detour. Mainly summer houses and a Danish style gap year boarding school (Efterskole).

  • I love the power station area around Kyndby Huse, it’s just different to the rest of the trip.

  • Hansens ice cream in Jægerspris.

  • The small ferry from Kulhuse to Sølager, M/F Columbus. It is a very quiet, on- demand, ferry and from time to time it lacks a captain willing to run it as a business and therefore always check it is still running.

  • Rørvig is a very classic Danish summer house town, with a pleasant harbour area.

  • Nykøbing Sjælland has a pleasant enough high street, typically Danish with its mix of small time brands and local shops.

  • Annebjerg is a fascinating old mental hospital, still home to various institutions. But now very much a cultural centre with restaurants and other foodie style businesses. Also don’t miss the creepy psychiatric museum.

  • The forests after Annebjerg are fantastic gravel places. Don’t miss the abandoned village of Ulkerup and the views out to sea from Kongsøre.

  • Last but not least before heading back into Holbæk is the Audebo dam and Nostro pizza which I think is one of the best in Denmark.


Stats

  • Distance: 117km, 2 days, although you can do it in a day.

  • Climb: 480m.

Difficulty and type of bike

This is an easy ride so long as you’re on a bike with relatively big tyres. Most of the route is signposted as cycle routes and you’ll find many Danes doing it on old city bikes, but it will be a bit of a boneshaker at times if you do that.

There’s no big hills, a couple of say 50m steep bits and almost all the roads are very quiet.

When to go

It’s Denmark. It will quite possibly rain in summer, and be cold and windy in winter. I’d go any time from April to October, with June, July and August being the best times (also because ice cream shops will be open and the ferry is most likely to be running).

  • A forest dirt path with grass growing in the middle, surrounded by dense green foliage on both sides, leading into the distance.

    Typical gravel path

  • View of a ferry boat's car deck with parked cars and bicycles, overlooking a body of water with land and houses in the background.

    One of the ferries

  • Sunset over grassy dunes with tall grass and a partly cloudy sky.

    Sunset

  • A bicycle on the deck of a ferry boat, with a body of water and a shoreline with trees and houses in the background.

    Nua Roure

  • A dirt pathway through a dense green forest with tall trees on both sides and leaf-covered ground.

    The forest near Jægerspris

  • A historic brick castle with three spires set atop a hill, surrounded by a paved courtyard, greenery, and trees, with a 'Do Not Enter' sign in the foreground.

    Jægerspris

  • Seven black sculptures with hollow necks arranged in a circle in a wooded forest area.

    Ulkerup

  • Three mountain bikes are parked on the deck of a ferry next to a faded yellow bike lane marking. The deck has a green surface and white walls with emergency equipment. A doorway with an interior visible is on the right side, and an open window shows water and land in the background.

    Always space for bikes on the ferries

  • A field of wildflowers with colorful blooms under a blue sky, trees on the left, and power lines and towers in the background.

    Wildflowers and pylons

Route

Getting there and back

Its a circular route, so choose which part of the circle you want to start at. The three main start points for me would be Holbæk, Frederiksund or Hundested, with Holbæk being just 45 minutes on a regional train from Copenhagen and Frederiksund a simliar distance on the suburban S-train.